Begin at the equipment pad. Look for wet soil, staining, mineral deposits, or a slow drip around the pump lid, drain plugs, filter tank, heater unions, valves, and threaded fittings. Hard water in the Antelope Valley leaves white calcium scale, so a dry-looking crust around a connection may mark a leak that has been evaporating before it reaches the ground.
Inspect the filter pressure gauge and equipment behavior as well. A normal filter pressure varies by plumbing and filter condition, but a sudden change from your established clean-filter pressure can indicate a clogged filter, suction restriction, or plumbing issue. Do not keep adding water and running the pump if the equipment pad is flooding; shut the system down and arrange an inspection.
Next, check the pool shell and fittings. Common trouble spots include skimmer throats, return fittings, light niches, cleaner lines, main-drain covers, and expansion joints. Cracks around a skimmer or a light can allow water to migrate behind the structure. If the water level consistently stops dropping at a particular fitting, that location becomes especially suspicious.
A simple dye test can help identify movement around a suspected crack. With the pump off and the water calm, place a small amount of leak-detection dye near the fitting without disturbing the water. If the dye is pulled toward a crack or opening, water is likely moving out. Never remove underwater electrical components or attempt to open a light niche yourself. Pool lights and bonding systems should be handled by a qualified professional.